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Episode 59 — I Found a $20 Oceanfront Studio in Peru! | Miraflores, Lima & Geoarbitrage
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I’m standing on a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
Below me, waves crash against the coast.
Above me, paragliders are floating through the air.
People are walking, jogging, cycling, rollerblading, and riding scooters along beautiful oceanfront paths.
And I’m thinking…
HOW THE HELL DID I GET A PLACE WITH THIS VIEW FOR TWENTY BUCKS A NIGHT?!
Welcome back, everybody, to Episode 59 of the NorthAmericanDarrell Podcast!
In Episode 57, we survived Guatemala’s chicken buses.
In Episode 58, Costa Rica gave us howler monkeys, sloths, and the possibility of INCOMING TURDS FROM ABOVE!
Now we’re heading south on my Volaris All You Can Fly Pass, as far south as it would take me.
LIMA, PERU!
And let me tell you…
I needed TWO trips to figure this place out!
Lima is enormous.
More than TEN MILLION people live in the metropolitan area.
And when you’re fresh off a plane, trying to understand the neighborhoods and transportation, it feels like all ten million are on the road at once!
Traffic everywhere. Horns. Buses cutting across lanes. People coming from every direction.
I thought I’d seen chaotic traffic around the world, but Lima deserves its own category!
And it’s not a place where I’d suggest wandering around blindly at night.
Crime is a real concern, and some neighborhoods demand much more caution than others.
But never fear!
Because apparently my solution to arriving in a massive unfamiliar city was to jump onto the LOCAL BUSES!
What could possibly go wrong?!
The first time, I stayed in Lima proper. I hadn’t figured out the city yet.
I discovered Miraflores, then rode local buses back and forth to get there.
And that trip taught me two things.
First, those buses are an inexpensive way to experience the city firsthand.
Second…
NEXT TIME, I’M GOING STRAIGHT TO MIRAFLORES!
Don’t get me wrong. Historic Lima has beautiful architecture, fascinating public squares, and the Presidential Palace.
I even saw the changing of the guard and traditional Peruvian dancers!
But the traffic, congestion, and feeling that I needed to stay alert took away from my enjoyment.
I was only there for a couple of days before heading farther south to check more countries off my bucket list.
CHILE!
ARGENTINA!
URUGUAY!
All incredible in completely different ways, and all deserve their own episodes.
I’d also visited BRAZIL for work about fifteen years earlier, so South America wasn’t entirely new to me.
But this trip was different.
Nobody was sending me there for a meeting.
I was going because I wanted to!
And I knew I had unfinished business in Lima.
So when I returned, I skipped the downtown experiment and went STRAIGHT TO MIRAFLORES!
And what a difference!
I found an oceanfront studio Airbnb perched along the cliffs overlooking the Pacific.
For a longer stay, that oceanfront view worked out to around FOUR HUNDRED EIGHTY DOLLARS A MONTH!
Are you kidding me?!
That was one of the best accommodation values I’ve found anywhere in my travels.
My morning routine was almost ridiculous.
Walk outside.
Look at the ocean.
Start getting my ten thousand steps.
All along those cliffs, people were exercising and enjoying the outdoors.
Walking. Running. Cycling. Rollerblading. Scooters.
I saw basketball courts, tennis courts, skate parks, and BMX areas.
It felt like the entire neighborhood was designed to encourage people to get outside and MOVE!
And then you’d look up…
PARAGLIDERS!
Gliding along the coastline with the Pacific below them.
Watching them launch and float past those oceanfront cliffs was incredible!
I didn’t need to book an expensive tour to enjoy the place.
The daily walk WAS the attraction!
Back in Episode 4, I talked about slow travel: settling into a place and living something closer to a normal life.
Miraflores was one of the clearest examples I’ve ever experienced.
I wasn’t racing around with a checklist.
I was finding a coffee shop, doing laundry, going for walks, getting a haircut, and enjoying a neighborhood I genuinely wanted to return to.
And here’s where my favorite subject comes in.
GEOARBITRAGE!
What happens when everyday life feels wonderful but the everyday bills are a fraction of what you’d pay in North America?
Well, let me give you some real numbers from my visits.
There was a favorite coffee shop right by my Airbnb.
I’d stop after my morning walk and order a fancy mocha, a little breakfast treat, and sometimes fresh-squeezed juice.
The whole thing cost me LESS THAN FIVE DOLLARS!
Back home, that could barely cover the coffee!
And the view?
INCLUDED!
Then there was the laundry.
I dropped off a week’s worth of clothes and picked them up the next day, washed, folded, and ready for the drawer.
LESS THAN TWO DOLLARS!
That barely covers a laundry pod back home!
And I didn’t even have to spend my afternoon watching a machine spin!
Then I found a local barber.
A haircut, trim, and hot shave for UNDER FOUR DOLLARS!
No shaving myself. No doing my own laundry.
Apparently, at those prices, I had become a man of leisure!
I also enjoyed massages.
Around thirty dollars for NINETY MINUTES!
And yes, I went twice a week on that trip.
These aren’t sacrifices.
They’re the small things that make daily life comfortable.
That’s geoarbitrage in practice: not living with LESS because something is cheap, but getting MORE from the money you’ve already earned.
And I know those prices feel different to someone earning local wages.
I’m describing what I personally paid while traveling with U.S. dollars, not pretending everyone in Lima has the same purchasing power.
And the food in Peru?
Let’s start with the fresh seafood!
PERUVIAN CEVICHE!
Fresh raw fish cured in lime juice, with red onion, cilantro, and a little chili.
Often served with sweet potato and big Peruvian corn.
Tangy, fresh, and absolutely fantastic!
At a casual spot, a seafood plate could run around THIRTY-FIVE SOLES, roughly TEN AMERICAN DOLLARS.
Fancy places cost more, of course.
And that amazing local soda alongside it?
If I’m remembering right, INCA KOLA!
Bright yellow, sweet, and unmistakably Peruvian!
I loved finding the small places where locals ate.
But let’s be honest.
Sometimes a North American wants a familiar meal for HALF THE PRICE!
TGI FRIDAYS!
CHILI’S!
Yes, they’re in Lima too!
I could get a meal with a couple of beers for around twenty dollars.
One Peruvian beer absolutely won my heart.
CUSQUEÑA NEGRA!
A rich, dark Peruvian lager with a smooth, slightly sweet character.
I loved that stuff!
That dark beer remains one of my favorite memories of the trip.
Even the neighborhood mall was impressive.
Larcomar sits right along those cliffs, with shops and restaurants overlooking the ocean.
Global brands weren’t magically seventy-five percent cheaper.
Imported products still cost real money.
But local services, meals, coffee, and accommodations were where the value was unbelievable.
And that’s an important distinction.
Miraflores isn’t all of Lima.
It’s a more affluent, visitor-friendly district within a huge city where many people have very different financial realities.
That oceanfront studio was a fantastic deal I found, not a promise that everybody can rent one for that price tomorrow.
But for me, the combination of walkability, ocean views, services, and affordability was hard to beat.
Honestly, Miraflores is one of the nicest urban neighborhoods I’ve experienced anywhere in South America.
And here’s the funny part.
After all those beautiful coastal walks, I still hadn’t visited Peru’s most famous sights in the mountains!
CUSCO!
MACHU PICCHU!
THE SACRED VALLEY!
And somewhere up there are a few LLAMAS I absolutely need to hang out with!
That’s still near the top of my bucket list!
I’m not done with Peru, and I’m not finished experimenting with my Volaris pass either.
There’s another trip waiting to happen.
But I’m not going to pretend I need to race there tomorrow just to cross something off a list.
I think about that first visit now.
Lost in Lima’s traffic, riding buses across a city I barely understood, wondering whether I’d made a terrible accommodation choice.
And then the second visit.
Same enormous city.
A completely different experience.
Just me, my morning coffee, the ocean breeze, and a long walking path along the cliffs.
Sometimes you don’t need a new country.
You just need to discover the right corner of one you’ve already visited.
And with that, our Guatemala, Costa Rica, and Peru trilogy is complete!
Here’s the part that makes me grin.
Between those bargain flights, the savings effectively covered the cost of my Volaris All You Can Fly Pass for the NEXT FIVE YEARS!
FIVE YEARS!
And I’ve still got places to go!
I still owe those llamas a visit.
But Miraflores?
I already know how to find my way back.
You can watch my footage from all three countries on YouTube at NorthAmericanDarrell.
Or visit NorthAmericanDarrell.com, hit PLAY, and let the random travel videos take you around the world—with music and narration mixed in!
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See you out there!
OVER AND OUT!
